Quote:
Originally Posted by the_rifle
Da' tie cine ti-a spus ca geometria se face in curba ???? 
Cand volanul sta drept rotile spate trebuie sa fie paralele indiferent de argumentele savante pe care le invoci...
Ce tot o dai cu puntea motoare... Ai vazut tu BMW cu motorul pus pe puntea spate ?
Asta cu paralelismul rotilor spate e valabila si pt trenuri vagoane si vagonete sau doar pt masini ? Sau la trenuri se modifica sinele in asa fel incat sa nu fie paralele ?
Ce spui tu acolo cel mult se refera de unghiul de cadere al rotilor nicidecum nu se refera la paralelism...
Zi-mi si mie sa nu mor prost... De ce ar trebui o roata spate sa fie stramba ? Zi-mi asa cu cuvinte simple nu te complica prea tare... 
Singura explicatie ar fi ca pamantul e rotund iar daca rotile spate ar fi paralele am iesi de pe orbita... |
Inteleg ironia atunci cand este fondata cu argumente. Imi poti demonstra intr-un fel sau altul (dovezi pertinente) ca ceea ce spui tu are acoperire?
Iti voi da cel mai simplu si la indemana exemplu - intr-un sevice unde se face geometria profesionala - vei vedea setarile de fabrica pentru o multime de masini, printre care si BMW.
Astfel vei descoperi ca setarea stock (cea de fabrica) pt puntea spate in cazul de fata la E36 va avea setarile aratate de mine mai sus (cele din cartea service E36 Cap.320)
Un indiciu il aveai in postul meu in care am spus ca TOE variaza si TINE CONT de puntea motoare. Te las singur sa te luminezi asupra acestui aspect. Use google.....
<<Here's another area of controversy. Many people say their BMW's "push like pigs" and want to dial toe-out in the rear to help the car rotate. This is caused by two things: 1) BMW designs their cars to excel at high speed maneuvers at the expense of slow speed sweepers, and 2) most drivers (surely not YOU!) enter corners too quickly causing the front tires to be overloaded at the moment of turn-in, causing a push. Once you isolate the cause of the push, you can begin to fix it.
Few drivers want to hear that their driving style is causing a problem, but this is true in most of the cases I've looked into. I've found that by altering my driving style slightly (slowing down and/or trail braking into a corner) I've been able to get my cars to rotate into and through most corners and without making alignment changes that would take away from my car's real strength -- high speed transitions -- where you'll make up the most time on your competition. Once you begin to add toe-out (or reduce toe-in) in the rear of a BMW you will quickly lose high speed stability and you've just taken away your car's real strength. It may *feel* better in the slow turns, but you'll lose out on the clock.
So here's what I recommend for E36 and E46 cars: 1/4" total toe-IN. On cars with more than 200 rwhp you may want 1/8" -1/4" more, depending on the course. Rear toe-in helps most under acceleration by... the more power you've got or the earlier you want to get on the power, the more toe-in you'll want.
However, more rear toe-in also means the car will rotate less easily under power and will also scrub top speed in the straights.
For us enthusiasts, one of the beautiful aspects of E36/E46 rear suspension design is that by adjusting the camber (which is easy to adjust) also creates slight changes in the static toe setting (which is very difficult to adjust). So by setting the camber and toe to a preset value, it is only necessary to adjust the camber bolts at the track to make significant handling changes.
As I mentioned before, for most Stock category cars set the rear camber at the maximum setting, then adjust the toe to 1/4" toe-IN. This is a good setting on an average high speed >>
Craciun fericit !
Problema geometrie punte spate E36 coupe 1994
