25-12-04, 21:40
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#16
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Super Moderator
 Stage 5
Join Date: Sep 2003
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Cine stie sa imi zica si mie care e faza cu clasele de calitate la amplificatoare ??? Class D, si asa mai departe ??? Ce inseamna fiecare clasa ???
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26-12-04, 13:51
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#17
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Stage 5
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 686
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Amplifier Class A - An amplifier design in which the output stage devices (usually an output stage for the negative side of the signal, and an output stage for the positive side of the signal) are passing current at all times, even when the input stage is idle. Since the output stages are \"active\" at all times, presence of an input signal causes output current to be diverted directly to the loudspeakers-- the slew rate is very quick-- there is only a very small delay between the introduction of signal at the amplifier's inputs and the appearance of signal at the amplifier's outputs. If all stages of the amplifier are biased in Class A mode, and the amplifier produces absolutely all the current at its output, regardless of input signal, it is called a \"Pure Class A\" amplifier. Because of the full-bias-current-on state of Class A amplifiers, they are the most inefficient of all designs; however, Class A amplifiers are the most linear.
Amplifier Class AB - An amplifier design which is basically a combination of Class A and Class B operation. An amplifier is said to be in Class AB operation if the amplifier operates in Class A for part of its output, and turns on additional current for the rest of its output. The amplifier's slew rate is slower in Class AB operation than in Class A, because there is a measurable length of time between the appearance of input signal and the appearance of output signal. The Class AB amplifier type is the most popular due to its increased efficiency and excellent linearity.
Amplifier Class B - An amplifier design which is essentially the opposite of Class A operation. No current flows when the output devices are idle, and thus must turn on from a zero-current state when signal is present. In addition, both output devices (negative and positive) are never active at the same time. If given a sine wave, each output device will operate for half the waveform. Thus, the Class B operation is very efficient; however, the linearity of the amplifier suffers when the signal approaches the point at which the output devices change; Class B operation amplifiers are generally not used for professional audio equipment, and is reserved for low-power operations such as radios.
Amplifier Class C - An amplifier design which is used for radio-frequency transmission. Similar to Class B operation, each output stage device (negative, positive), is turned on for less than one-half cycle, and pulsed on and off through the duration of the half-cycle. A Class C amplifier can produce great amounts of output power; although the distortion is great, RF circuitry has been developed and tuned to alleviate the effects of this distortion.
Amplifier Class D - An amplifier design which is also switched. The output devices are switched on and off at least twice per cycle. In theory, because the output devices (negative and positive) are completely on or completely off, no power is dissipated, so theoretically Class D operation is 100% efficient. Real-life Class D amplifiers are, of course, not 100% efficient, but approach 90%.
Amplifier Class E - An amplifier design designed specifically for rectangular input pulses, not audio waveforms. The output stage produces a waveform similar to a damped square pulse.
Amplifier Class G - An amplifier design utilising, essentially, dual Class AB output stages which use two different power supplies; the input signals determines which power supply is used. Highly efficient, and becoming popular.
Amplifier Class H - An amplifier design using the Class G design and modulates the second, higher power supply voltage with the input signal. This design allows only the necessary amount of voltage to be used to operate the amplifier.
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27-12-04, 15:11
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#18
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Stage 5
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 686
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Vrei sa faci cam mult cu doar 6 mil. Nici cu cele mai ieftine produse de pe piata nu stiu daca iesi la banii aia !
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27-12-04, 17:24
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#19
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Stage 5
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 686
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Ceea ce o sa se intample este ca subwooferul va fi acoperit aproape in totalitate de boxele din masina. Eu am pus un Infinity de 200W RMS cu amplificare proprie ( basslink care e si mai scump ca asta) si nu se auzea aproape deloc iar asta in conditiile in care pe vremea respectiva nu aveam amplificare pe boxe ! !
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04-01-05, 07:56
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#20
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Stage 5
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 908
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...BHz... daca te referi la acel Clarion pot sa iti spun eu ca nu e solutia optima pt a obtine bass...acela este un sub preamplificat care face doar o completare fata de sistemul audio original (sau custom fara sub)...da frecventa joase de o claritate acceptabila dar nu are putere...cu 6 mil iti pot oferi produse second, respectiv un amplif pe 4 canale a cate 60W, bridgeable, un subwoofer DLS 310b in incinta sealed si cablurile aferente...te costa in plus posta...in configuratia de mai sus vei obtine 120 W ceea ce e multumitor la banii astia...trimite-mi mail la sfigmo@yahoo.com daca vrei sa afli detalii...bafta
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16-01-05, 17:52
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#21
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Stage 5
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,501
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ia uitati ce am gasit:
http://www.marisgroup.ro/catalog/pro...products_id=93
Amplificator 4 canale The Rock 800
[The Rock 800] 5.844.852 Lei
Stabil in 2 ohm * Variable low-and high pass 40 - 300 Hz (12 dB per octave) Variable bass boost 0...12 dB at 45 Hz * Bridge- / Tri-mode * Circuite de protectie la supraincalzire si scurtcircuit * LED-uri pentru functionare si protectie * Max. power output (Sine Burst 2:8, 1 kHz) / 4 Ohms, 14,4 V 4 x 200 W / 2 x 500 W * RMS power output (DIN 45 324) / 4 Ohms, 14,4 V 4 x 110 W / 2 x 260 W * Max. power output (Sine Burst 2:8, 1 KHz) / 2 Ohms, 14,4 V 4 x 250 W * RMS power output (DIN 45 324) into 2 Ohms, 14,4 V 4 x 140 W * Raspuns in frecventa 5 Hz - 50 kHz (-3 dB) * THD < 0,05 % (1 kHz) * Signal-to-noise ratio (A-weighted) > 100 dB * Sensibilitate la intrare 0,25 V - 4 V * Impedanta la intrare 20 kOhms * Alimentare 12V masa negativa * Dimensiuni (WxHxD) 461 mm x 48 mm x 253 mm * Grutate 4,9 kg
HEHE... ce parere aveti??
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16-01-05, 18:40
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#22
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Stage 5
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 386
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Arata bine pe hartie, cam prea bine...
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16-01-05, 19:23
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#23
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Super Moderator
Stage 5
Join Date: Sep 2003
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2 x 500 W cu numai 6 milioane ???
greu de crezut...  
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16-01-05, 19:55
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#24
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Stage 5
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,501
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2x500w muzicali...... oricum il cunosc pe sefu de la www.marisgroup.ro
nu pare nimic suspect....
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16-01-05, 20:09
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#25
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Stage 5
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 908
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2X500W rms? heh...la dimensiunile alea? adica eu am montat asa ceva...suna tare dar pe un sub de max 150 w...vorba ta viperu'...arata bine pe hartie...bafta
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16-01-05, 23:28
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#26
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Honda Driver
Stage 5
Join Date: Apr 2004
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Re:
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Originally Posted by \"Swat-Cat\"
2x500w muzicali...... oricum il cunosc pe sefu de la www.marisgroup.ro
nu pare nimic suspect.... |
hm...zici ca il cunosti? imi bagi si mie o pila? 
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17-01-05, 11:59
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#27
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Stage 5
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 386
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Zice asa:
RMS power output (DIN 45 324) into 2 Ohms, 14,4 V 4 x 140 W
asta inseamna ca in 4 ohmi o sa fie ceva de genul 4 x 70W
Asta daca in masina ar exista 14.4V... 
La 12V inseamna ceva de genul 4x50W, care in conditii de test este foarte bine...
Dar sunt sigur ca daca scriau ca are \"doar\" 4x50W nu mai era ceva extraordinar...
Oricum, nu va luati dupa ce scrie in specificatiile tehnice, luati-va dupa \"cum\" sunt scrise specificatiile tehnice...
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17-01-05, 13:22
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#28
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Stage 5
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,501
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hello..... toate statile sunt testate pe 14.4v.... este standard
asta o sa vezi la orice statie; oricum nu cred ca ai vrea sa stai cu statia in blana si cu motorul oprit nu ca s-ar auzi mai prost dar ar fii posibil sa nu mai pornesti masina ( p.s. masina pornita are 14v la borne )
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17-01-05, 15:16
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#29
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Stage 5
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 386
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Se masoara la 14.4V pentru ca tensiunea respectiva este standardul la care sunt facute sa functioneze oricare componenta dintr-o masina si acest standard a fost facut de SAE.
Te cred ca ai masurat tensiunea respectiva la borne, insa daca tu masori mai mult de 12V la bornele amplificatorului in momentul in care are boxe conectate pe el si el canta la nivelul maxim (intra in clipping) eu iti dau o lada de bere.
Bineinteles pe o masina normala cu sistemul electric nemodificat.
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17-01-05, 17:07
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#30
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Stage 5
Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,501
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daca cumpar un condensator de 1F iti garantez ca nu scade sub 13.5v...
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